October 2013 – DemirKapija,
(From Skopje – 117 km, from Ohrid – 195 km)
Strengthening of friendship and an exchange of experience – cultures between fans of mountains and rocks from the different countries of the world. Promoting healthy sporting lifestyle. Creating teams of route setters for making and maintaining routes. Promoting rock climbing on the nature rocks. Climbing with local climbers and international guests. Development of the rocky area Demir Kapija as perspective place on the Balkans for trainings of rock-climbers, climbers, tourists and fans of outdoor activities. The experience transfer from the strongest climbers to beginners. Seminar and the On-sight Marathon festival – a component of the Alexander Klenov’s long-term public program – «Rocks for everybody»
Macedonian alpine federation and Alpine club Ploca.
24.10.13 – 27.10.13
“Balkan climbing festival DEMIR KAPIJA 2013″Program:
· Route setting Ethics
· Exchange of experience
· Conducting training for participants according to international standards of safety
· Estimating of routes difficulty
· Practical route-setting
Plan of the seminar — Itinerary:
· 1st day (Thursday)- Arrival, accommodation and technical meeting, climbing. Assessing climbing level of climbing of the participants and introduction of the locality. There will be presentations in the night hours.
· 2nd day (Friday) – Climbing on direction by choice and sectors by adequate weight of personal level of climbing There will be presentations in the night hours.
· 3rd day (Saturday) – Contest and climbing by choice. There will be presentations in the night hours.
4th day (Sunday) – Climbing by choice and awards for the best climbers
1. Right to participate have the persons over 16 years of age (for the participants over 18 years is needed agreement from parent or guardian – confirmation)
3. Adequate equipment for climbing (helmet is mandatory).
P.S. Yours slideshows, CD, DVD, pictures and films are welcome for daily discussions and climbing tales and the like. Please bring that!
Dates : 24-27 October, 2013
Place : Demir Kapija, Macedonia
(the nearest airport Skopje – 117 km, Ohrid – 195 km)
24 October – day of arrival, placement and registration of participants. The specified applications for participation are accepted in Demir Kapija, 18 to 21 o’clock, preliminary applications a request to send by e-mail on firstname.lastname@example.org and VAKLEN_RU@YAHOO.COM till October 20 2013.
25 October – from sunrise to sunset
Climbing on directions through the locality, climbing on prior directions, repetitive climbing routes. the classification will include guidelines with a minimum of two lengths.
At 20-30 participants should hand over cards and judges will reveal winners of a stage and finalists on a score of the passable routes. Each participant have duty by every prior climbing to leave a photography with the line of the direction and technical description. In the night hours will have video presentations on every participant country.
26 October – Climbing on directions through the locality, climbing on prior directions. In the classification will be included directions with a minimum of two lengths. Contest of technical climbing under the guidance of Aleksandar Klenov. Competition for best technical climber. Rule Book. The Contests are. Matches are held on the rock selected by judges. The climber must climb the highest in the allotted time. It can be used on all types of climbing equipment except expansions bolts. The climbing of the direction is only by the way of technical climbing – the use of the free climbing is forbidden. The climbers are secured by top rope. The falling with hanging on its own equipment is punishable by additional minutes while for falling or hanging on judicial rope – disqualification. The winner of the match will be the one who will reach the highest point from the direction. If two climbers reach same height first will be the faster climber. In the night hours will have video presentations on every participant country.
27 October 15-00 Closing, rewardings.
Climbing on directions through the locality, climbing on prior directions, repetitive climbing. In the classification will be included directions with a minimum of two lengths up to 14PM. In 15PM declaring for the best. The winners of the competition are defined by the main board of judges according to the regulations. Rewarding is financed by organizers and sponsors.
REQUIREMENTS TO PARTICIPANTS:
It is necessary for all participants of a festival to provide at registration:
The policy of assurance of accident in rock-climbing
· Pairs created in advance or on a place of competitions by agreement area allowed to participation in «Climbing marathon». The participants provide their safety themselves (they belay each other on the routes), so they must have appropriate skills of dealing with belaying and they must also have their own equipment that corresponds to the requirements of UIAA.
· Minors are allowed only under responsibility of parents or the personal trainer.
· Depending on the place of residence chosen by you, you can be necessary: equipment for a bivouac and a lodging for the night; the gas equipment or kerosene stoves for cooking; capacities for drinking water; the set of clothes corresponding to climatic conditions. It is recommended to have antitick-borne inoculations and means for protection against insects.
Safety: The participants provide their safety themselves (they belay each other on the routes), so they must have appropriate skills of dealing with belaying and they must also have their own equipment that corresponds to the requirements of UIAA.
Scoring and rewarding:
Financing: Financing support is provided by sponsors and organizers. Transfer, accommodation and meals for participants is financed by their means and their sending organization.
Area information: The first climb was made in 1978. On the 5-th of October during the visit of Josip Broz Tito (the President of Yugoslavia) in Macedonia, three climbers made the first ascent here and named the route in his honour – “Titova”. The climbers were Jovan Poposki, Vasil Frangovski and Milan Santo.
After this climb in the following years more macedonian climbers will start visiting this area more often and climb more and more new lines, turning it into a regular playground for the next generations. Today there are over 40 multipitch routes starting on different parts of the rock and over 80 short (sport) routes in few sectors…
Convenient way is to use the train which reaches Demir Kapija from Skopje only for 2 hours.
By car. Take the M1 (E75) highway from Skopje towards Gevgelija and after driving some 120km you’ll reach the small settlement of Demir Kapija. Don’t take the exit for the town but continue further down the road and park the car after the first tunnel (between the 2 tunnels there are few parking spots on both sides of the road).
The approach: The river Vardar separates the settlement of Demir Kapija from the big limestone rockface that rises up right from the left bank of the river – making it hard to approach for climbing. The easiest and fastest way to approach the routes is to start from between the tunnels. For the trad routes on the main face when looking towards the second tunnel go down to the right – follow the stream for about 100 meters. When you’ll see the river (river Vardar) go to the right towards the rock and look for the fix steel cord that will take you towards the routes – traversing over the river…
Food and accommodation: The accommodation will be organized in group camping where the organizer is obliged to provide the basic living conditions. Every participant will bring its own tent also there is a private accommodation where the price is from 5 to 10 Euro per person and there are also many places where participants can eat or they can buy their own food and drinks in Demir Kapija…